Chris Howard, editor
Seattle is a great food town full of historic locations. Sometimes the food and the history come together in iconic combinations. We found that often the historical or emotional significance attached to a place may be more important than the food or service.
Icons from the ’60s
A discussion of Seattle landmarks must begin with “Century 21,” the 1962 World’s Fair. The Space Needle, constructed for the fair, has survived windstorms, earthquakes, fireworks and parachute jumps. It is the symbol of Seattle. Seattleites, known to flock to the newest trendy restaurant, could be forgiven for overlooking the Space Needle as a dining destination. Our reviewer had not been there for ages, and only went because out-of-town relatives arrived and the Space Needle was a “must.” You will need reservations.
The restaurant, Sky City (400 Broad St., Seattle; 206-905-2100), revolves at a stately pace of one revolution every 45 minutes or so. There is no more panoramic view, at least while one remains seated. On a clear day you will smugly congratulate yourself for living in such a beautiful part of the world.
The service is professional and attentive, and — most surprising — the food is really good. Saturday brunch, a prix fixe, three-course meal, started with the standard-issue, New England-style clam chowder. The king salmon was equal to offerings at many of our favorite restaurants and the prime rib was a very nice cut, lean and well-seasoned with rosemary. Bread pudding and cobbler were both excellent dessert choices, generously portioned.
The downside to Sky City is access: a 20-minute walk from downtown (decreased somewhat if you took the Monorail), parking (unless you valet) and the queue for the restaurant elevator. The latter can take its toll — our wait was about 25 minutes. The meal was a good value, even without the unparalleled and ever-changing view of the Seattle skyline, Puget Sound and the mountains surrounding us.
If you made plans to visit the Seattle World’s Fair, you were, of course, supposed to stay at The Edgewater (“You can fish from your room”) on Pier 67. However, The Edgewater, intended to be built for the World’s Fair, did not open in time. Its iconic status was sealed, though, when it hosted The Beatles in 1964.
The current restaurant, Six Seven (as in Pier 67) (2411 Alaskan Way, Seattle; 206-269-4575), commands a magnificent water view, with dining on the deck — and optional heaters — available, as weather allows. The lunch menu provided many selections and the server encouraged sampling the “Deli Board Bento Box” — your choices of soup, salad and sandwich for $12. The “Brie L.T.” was a surprising and delectable combination of flavors; the clam chowder — well-prepared, standard-issue Seattle — was hearty, but not overwhelmingly filling. Both the “Crunchy Bibb B.L.T.” and the baby spinach salad deserve repeat visits.
13 Coins (125 Boren Ave. N., Seattle; 206-682-2513) is named with a romantic Peruvian story in mind and is the 24/7 Seattle place to go for food and, depending on your mood, entertainment or privacy. The studded leather-and-wood, ceiling-high booths provide privacy or the comfortable captain’s chairs at the counter offer the opportunity to chat with the chefs (and neighboring diners if they are friendly), as well as front-row seats to watch the food preparation production.
The atmosphere and the berry and whipped cream-covered Belgian waffle surpassed even the demanding standards of hard-to-please guests. The vegetable omelet and hash browns were prepared perfectly. Go back again and again, and for the next item on the menu.
Going Further Back
Three much older establishments claim deep neighborhood roots making them iconic.
Merchants Café (109 Yesler Way, Seattle; 206-925-7625) in Pioneer Square, established in 1890, lays claim to the title of oldest restaurant in Seattle. It is noted for its burgers and is a very convenient stop either before or after baseball or football games or soccer matches.
Tai Tung (659 S. King Street, Seattle; 206-622-7372), at 75 years old, is the reputed ancestor of restaurants in the International District. Entering it seems like a time machine transportation to the ’60s (perhaps because that is when it was last remodeled).
For those who experienced it with their parents, some items can still be ordered, whether the items are on the (English) menu or not — as in the Dungeness crab in black-bean sauce we selected. We followed the server’s recommendation and tried the chicken chow mein and the pepper chicken, which we liked. Tai Tung delivered exactly what we expected, which is probably one reason it is still going strong at 75.
Volunteer Park Café & Marketplace (1501 17th Ave. E., Seattle; 206-328-3155) occupies a spot that has been home to some sort of food establishment for more than 100 years. In the past few years, due to changes in ownership and philosophy, this location has grown from a small neighborhood grocery into a very popular restaurant with lines frequently out the door, even with outdoor dining capacity in front.
VPC’s menu emphasizes seasonal local and sustainable food, including its own herb garden. For the ever-popular breakfasts (six days a week until 4:30), try any of the house-made pastries — sweet or savory. A particular lunch favorite is the brie and apple Panini. For dinner — your choice.
Institutions We May Take for Granted
Bakeman’s Restaurant (122 Cherry St., Seattle; 206-622-3375) is well-known for its roast turkey, roasted in house every day, and for its meatloaf, as well as its no-nonsense service. Located in the basement of the Hoge Building, going down the outside stairs to enter Bakeman’s is a walk into the ’70s (it opened in 1970).
The turkey sandwiches are still great. The daily specials are erased from the board as they run out. Temptation guided us and we loved the poppy seed cake for dessert. We wish Bakeman’s was closer to our side of town.
No discussion of iconic Seattle eateries would be complete without mentioning Dick’s Deluxe Drive-In (111 NE 45th St., Seattle; 206-634-0300). A trip to any one of Dick’s five (soon to be six) locations will make you nostalgic for the glory days of drive-in hamburger joints or high school, depending on your age.
Since 1954, Dick’s has served its famous burgers. For some, the real attractions are the hand-cut fries and the milkshakes, made thick with scoops of real ice cream (ice cream also available on a cone or in a cup). One downside (for picky eaters) is that the burgers are made standard — there’s no having it “your way.” Have it Dick’s way, and like it! It’s pretty darn popular.
Burger Master (3040 NE 45th St., Seattle; 206-525-7100) near the University Village has a similar emotional attachment to those who grew up north of the Montlake Cut.
The article cannot be concluded without reference to the Seattle restaurants whose very names are iconic, and require no further review because of their generally acknowledged historical significance: Canlis, The Athenian (or any place to eat in Pike Place Market), Ray’s Boathouse and, of course, Ivar’s.
Contact Chris Howard with comments or for more information at choward@schwabe.com.
Originally published in the October 2010 issue of the King County Bar Bulletin. Reprinted with permission of the King County Bar Association.
